Zosonkhanitsa za Sarah Burton zimakondwerera akazi kupyolera muzithunzi za miyambo yosiyana siyana, kuyambira kubadwa ndi ulongo mpaka ukwati ndi kulira maliro. Panali madiresi aukwati oyera ndi mikanjo ya christening, zokongoletsedwa bwino za lace poplin ensembles ndi zovala zachikopa za lace corseted. Zodzikongoletsera zolimba, zosanjikiza, zopangidwa ngati zolowa ndi zokumbukira, zowonjezeredwa ku mphuno.
Kuti akafike kokwerera ndege, alendo adadutsa mumsewu wazithunzi zosuntha za LED zopangidwa ndi wojambula wa digito Jon Rafman, yemwe Demna Gvasalia adapeza ku Art Basel. Chiwonetserocho chinali chomaliza kuchokera ku zovala za mumsewu, pomwe Gvasalia adatchuka ku Vetements, akuwonetsa zovala zamphamvu zamphamvu, kuphatikiza mapewa opangidwa, masitayilo akulu, komanso madiresi amabulangete okhala ndi ma logo ambiri m'mafonti osiyanasiyana. Ma silhouette akale adapatsidwa mawonekedwe amtsogolo pogwiritsa ntchito mitundu yolimba ngati fuchsia ndi zobiriwira zobiriwira.
Riccardo Tisci adawunikira malingaliro aku Britain m'gulu lake loyamba, ndikulitcha Kingdom kuti likondwerere cholowa cholemera cha England, pomwe chilichonse kuyambira pagulu lopanduka mpaka machitidwe oyengedwa bwino amakhala mogwirizana. Ma jekete opangidwa ndi a Savile Row komanso opatukana adaphatikizidwa ndi a Mary Janes a chunky ndipo atavala ma teyi ojambula zithunzi. Chojambula chodziwika bwino cha nyumbayi chinatsitsimutsidwa mu mabulawuzi a silika ndi zikwama zam'manja, pamene Thomas Burberry monogram watsopano, wotchulidwa ndi woyambitsa mtunduwo, adawonekera pamatumba a lamba ndi zidendene zazitali.
Chopereka chomaliza cha Raf Simons pamtunduwo - nkhani za kuchoka kwake zidadzetsa mantha pomwe zidafika Khrisimasi isanakwane - ndi inanso yoperekedwa kwa akale aku America. Mafilimu aku Hollywood monga Jaws ndi The Graduate adalimbikitsa kusakaniza kwa zovala zokongoletsedwa ndi mafunde komanso zophatikizana zomwe zidapangitsa kuti zikhale zovuta komanso zoyeserera. Zovala zam'madzi za Neoprene, zamaluwa zamakono, ndi zolemba za nyalugwe zinasakanizidwa ndi masiketi osweka pa sitima yapamadzi ndi nsonga za thanki zosindikizidwa ndi zikwangwani zovala pansi pa mikanjo ya omaliza maphunziro.
Asanapereke zosonkhanitsira zomwe amayembekeza kwambiri pambuyo pa kuchoka kwa Phoebe Philo, Hedi Slimane adakulitsa ziyembekezo zake pokweza katchulidwe ka logo ndikulengeza kukhazikitsidwa kwa mizere yoyamba yachimuna ndi zovala za Céline. Otsatira amalakalaka kubwereranso kwa rock 'n' roll yokongola yomwe adadziwika nayo nthawi yake ku Saint Laurent, pomwe otsutsa amakayikira ngati angapite patali, kuwononga minimalism yokongola yomwe Philo adapanga mosamala kwambiri. Chotsatira chake chinali mndandanda wa ma frocks okonzekera phwando kwa akazi, odzaza ndi mapewa akuthwa, zikopa zambiri, ndipo ngakhale mauta pamwamba, pamene anyamata ovala magalasi ovala magalasi ovala masuti opyapyala amakumbukira masiku oyambirira a Slimane ku Dior Homme-masuti omwe alinso. kupezeka kwa akazi.
Karl Lagerfeld anachitira anthu omvera ku Grand Palais pothawa kwawo m'mphepete mwa nyanja. Pamene zitsanzo zinkayenda opanda nsapato pagombe lopangidwa ndi manmade lodzaza ndi mafunde okhala ndi nsapato za plexi ndi zikwama zooneka ngati mpira wa m'mphepete mwa nyanja, tweed ya siginecha ya nyumbayo idawonetsedwanso, nthawi ino ili ndi chikasu chachikasu, chofewa, chamchenga beige, ndi pinki yapastel, yopangidwa mumitundu yonse iwiri. ndi masilhouette amakono monga ma vests ndi ponchos. Chimodzi mwazinthu zatsopano zamafashoni, akabudula apanjinga, adalandira chithandizo cha Lagerfeld ngati akabudula otsitsimula kuchokera mchaka cha 1991.
Natacha Ramsay-Levi wapereka mizu yolimba ya bohemian ya zilembo zamakono, zokonzekera chikondwerero. Zosonkhanitsazo zinatitengera ku malo omwe ali ndi tchuthi monga Ibiza ndi Morocco ndi madiresi aatali mu nsalu zachilimwe ndi zojambula. Izi zinali zokongoletsedwa ndi zithumwa ndi zodzikongoletsera zomwe zidatengedwa m'njira, monga ndolo zagolide zodyetsera pamapewa, ndi ma cuffs am'manja okhala ndi miyala ya turquoise. Zikwama zam'manja zinali zopaka utoto wonyezimira mu kuwala kwa dzuwa ndi mitundu yowoneka ngati buluu.
Kuvina kwamasiku ano kunali kudzoza kwa Maria Grazia Chiuri, yemwe chiwonetsero chake chinayamba ndi kutanthauzira kokongola kwamakono kovina kojambulidwa ndi Sharon Eyal. Pokhala ndi ufulu woyenda pachimake chake, msewu wonyamukira ndegeyo unali wodzaza ndi zitsanzo za mabala a ballerina ovala mikanjo ya tutu, ma mesh bodices, ndi nsapato za riboni, zonse za beige zofewa ndi za pastel. Panali zidutswa za denim za Chiuri, zomwe zimatengera tayi-dye nyengo ino, komanso malaya amadzimadzi a mackintosh ndi khakis kuti apereke chiwongoladzanja chachinyamata pakuchita bwino kwa lace ndi tulle.
Nali yankho ngati mukuyang'ana chinachake choti chikusangalatseni (ndi kukuphimbani) pa tsiku lamvula. Kutsegula ndi malaya amvula owoneka bwino okhala ndi zikopa zonyezimira za bulauni ndi matumba, chiwonetserochi chinali chiwonetsero chachipambano cha kuvala kwanthawi yayitali. Zovala zazitali za denim zophulitsa bomba zidatsatiridwa ndi masiketi achikopa achikopa ndi akabudula anjinga am'chiuno, onse omangika m'chiuno ndi zikwama zamalamba. Ma tote a lalanje ndi kamvekedwe ka timbewu ta timbewu ta timbewu ta timbewu ta timbewu ta timbewu ta timbewu ta timbewu ta timbewu ta timbewu ta timbewu ta timbewu ta timbewu ta timbewu ta timbewu ta timbewu ta timbewu ta timbewu ta timbewu ta timbewu ta timbewu ta timbewu ta timbewu ta timbewu ta timbewu ta timbewu ta timbewu ta timbewu ta timbewu ta timbewu ta timbewu ta timbewu ta timbewu ta timbewu ta timbewu ta timbewu ta timbewu ta timbewu timakhala tambirimbiri tomwe timatulutsa timadzi tambiri tambiri tambiri tambiri tambiri tambiri tambiri tambiri.
Polimbikitsidwa ndi nyanja, Giorgio Armani adawonetsa kuvina kosakhwima kwa pastel, kuchokera ku pinki ya "mermaidian" kupita ku buluu ya turquoise. Kupatula zowoneka bwino, monga malamba ndi mapanelo a PVC pamodzi ndi zipolopolo za zipolopolo, panalinso ma jekete osalala a silika asiliva ndi madiresi okhala ndi mikanda yonyezimira yonyezimira, yonse yonyezimira ngati kunyezimira kwa mamba a nsomba. Nyenyezizo zinali zina mwa zidutswa zomaliza za mtundu wa watercolor, kuphatikizapo jumpsuit yokhala ndi zodula m'chiuno, pamene ma sneakers, toti wamba, ndi masilafu a azure mesh anapanga maziko a zipangizo zambiri.
Awiri m'gulu la Clare Waight Keller adawona ma silhouette aamuna ndi aakazi ataphatikizidwa ndikusakanikirana kudzera pamapewa amphamvu atsopano, omwe amawonedwa pa madiresi amtali pansi ndikulekanitsa, komanso mawonekedwe a thalauza lalitali lopangidwa ndi usilikali. Zida ndi zosindikizira zidatengedwa kuchokera kumalo osungiramo zakale a Hubert de Givenchy.
Alessandro Michele adapereka ma disco spin ake omwe anali achizolowezi, poyamba pothamangira Milan mokomera Théâtre Le Palace ku Paris, kalabu yodziwika bwino yazaka za m'ma 1970 yomwe imakonda kupezeka ndi Yves Saint Laurent. Mphenjete za flapper, mitundu yolimba, ndi Lurex zidalemba zidutswa zambiri, zina zomangidwa ndi mapewa opindika kwambiri, ena amasaina ake '70s silhouettes okhala ndi masiketi amtali wa ng'ombe ndi ma jekete osindikizira a boxy heritage. Magalasi adzuwa kukula kwa zobvala zamaso amatsagana ndi mawonekedwe ambiri, okhala ndi chipewa cha apo ndi apo kapena tiara. Omvera nawonso adachita chidwi ndi nyimbo yodziwika bwino ya Jane Birkin.
Ngakhale idakhazikitsidwa motsutsana ndi Longchamp Racecourse ku Paris, zosonkhanitsirazo sizinali zolemetsa mwachizolowezi. Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski adapereka njira zotsogola zamasewera zomwe zimakhala zabwino kwambiri m'chilimwe. Ma anorak a nyengo yofunda ankavala akabudula a safari ndipo ankaphatikizidwa ndi nsapato za gladiator, zomwe ndi chitsanzo chapamwamba chopanda kukangana. Zovala zachikopa za Boxy ndi nsonga zidaphatikizidwa ndi mathalauza a cheki, ma tunics, ndi ma co-ord amtundu wachilengedwe wa imvi, bulauni, ndi siginecha ya Hermès lalanje. Chikwama cha nyengo? Chikwama cha ndowa, chomwe chitha kugwedezeka paphewa kuti mupulumuke.
Nicolas Ghesquière analozera za kuthekera kowoneka bwino komanso kosatha kwa kuyenda mumlengalenga posewera zithunzi ndi ma voliyumu pazithunzi zolimba. Zosonkhanitsazo zinachititsa omvera ulendo wopita kumayiko akutali (kapena mapulaneti), kumene malo ozungulira anapangidwa ndi zigamba ndi kusindikizidwa pa zovala zakunja zazikulu kuposa zamoyo, zonse zokongoletsedwa bwino ndi zingwe zazifupi. Zowonjezera zidabwera m'mitundu yosiyanasiyana yachikwama chaching'ono- ndi mawonekedwe owuziridwa ndi chikumbutso. Nsapato zinamangidwa ndi zip. Zonsezi, kugwedeza mutu kwa nomad yapamwamba.
Marc Jacobs adagwira ntchito ndi wojambula zithunzi Josh Wood komanso wojambula tsitsi Guido Palau kuti apange chithunzithunzi cha maswiti a thonje pagulu lake. Zitsanzo zidakwera siteji motsatizana ndi mitundu ya marshmallow, kuguba kukayimba nyimbo yamasewera kumbuyo, yokongoletsedwa kwambiri ndi makolala akulu akulu a Pierrot, ena atavala mikanjo yamutu ndi chala kapena ma confectiones okhala ndi mauta akulu akulu kuti agwirizane. Masuti anali atakokomeza, mapewa a bokosi ophatikizidwa ndi thalauza lopunduka ndi zipewa za boat zokhala ndi zotchinga zokokera.
Zithunzi zochititsa chidwi za m'mphepete mwa nyanja zinadzaza ndi anthu oonerera, kuyambira ndi maluwa okwera pamafunde pa ma jekete osambira ndi akabudula, macheke odziwika bwino pansalu ya patebulo kuti aone zophimba, ndi ma bikini oyera a m'maso. Mphenjere ndi raffia zinakongoletsa matumba am'mphepete mwa nyanja, pomwe zipewa zowuluka zidapangidwa mwaluso kwambiri ngati zokongoletsera zachi China. Majuzi okulirapo, zipewa zosambira zoluka, ndi matawulo osambira otembenuzidwa-poncho opangidwa kuti azitsagana ndi gulu lowoneka bwino - chiwonetserochi chidatsekedwa ndi madiresi akuda angapo achigololo oyenera phwando lapadziwe.
Akhoza kukhala mlongo wamng'ono, koma izi sizilepheretsa Miu Miu kuchoka mumthunzi wa Prada. Msungwana wa Miu Miu wakula, koma sanataye mayendedwe ake opanduka. Zovala za Girly rosette zokongoletsedwa ndi taffeta zokwinya zidagwirizana ndi masokosi okwera ntchafu ndi nsanja zokhuthala. Masiketi ang'onoang'ono ndi ma hemline afupiafupi adakhalabe osakhazikika koma adapangidwa ndi masokosi apamwamba, ma hem akulu kuposa moyo ndipo amapangidwa ndi mauta okongola. Zovala za nandolo zokongoletsedwa ndi retro zinali zofunika kwambiri pazovala zakunja. Zikafika pazowonjezera, zidali zowala pamikanda, mikanda, ndi ndolo.
Alendo nthawi zambiri amachoka pachiwonetsero cha Ports 1961 ali ndi bata, chifukwa cha ma silhouette oyenda amitundu yofewa ya Mediterranean blues ndi yellows. Zosonkhanitsa zaposachedwa zinapitiliza mutuwo koma ndi zowoneka bwino za mphonje, zowoneka pa chovala chachingwe chokhala ndi mikanda kutalika pansi, zomangira mapewa, ndi zikwama zama messenger. Ma silhouette omasuka, ocheperako anali akuwonekerabe ponseponse, ndi suti za androgynous, zoluka za asymmetric, ndi madiresi a jersey okongoletsedwa ndi mfundo zophimbidwa apa kapena zokutira ukonde pamenepo, pomwe mabang'i amfupa ndi nsapato zachi Greek amamaliza kuyang'ana kulikonse.
Zosonkhanitsira za Miuccia Prada zinali zophatikizika pakati pa osamala komanso olimba mtima. Panali zambiri kumbali yachikazi, monga madiresi achidole, malaya aakazi awiri, masiketi a shift, koma masewera othamanga kwambiri anali odziwikanso mwa mawonekedwe a zazifupi zozungulira, masokosi okwera ntchafu, zovala za thupi, ndi magalasi akuluakulu. Zovala zinali ndi mauta osalimba a satin, '60s wallpaper graphics, crystal studs, and tayi-dye mapatani, zomwe zinkawonekanso m'zikwama. Nsapato zidabwera m'mitundu iwiri: nsapato ya sock yamasewera ndi chala choloza chala cha ultrafeminine.
Chiwonetsero chodzaza ndi nyenyezi komanso chakudya chamadzulo ku Central Park chinakondwerera zaka 50 za mtunduwo, Hilary Clinton ndi Oprah pakati pa abwenzi omwe adabwera kudzatenga chithunzi cha American Dream. Monga zowonera zakale, zitsanzo zazaka zapakati pa 7 mpaka 70 zidayenda bwino m'malo osungiramo zinthu zakale, kuphatikiza nsapato za ng'ombe, zoluka za intarsia, mapolo opangidwa kale, ma tweed opangidwa ndi matayala ambiri, komanso zokonda zamakono, monga chigamba cha velvet chokongola. gown ndi jekete zankhondo. Panali chinachake kwa aliyense m'gulu la maonekedwe 100, kaya ndi munthu wamasewera omwe amafunafuna ma jekete a varsity kapena soirée-hopping socialite.
Anthony Vaccarello anali ndi zitsanzo zoyenda pamadzi, msewu wowuluka ndege wonyezimira wa Eiffel Tower kumbuyo kwake. Zovala zazing'ono zakuda zosasinthika za Saint Laurent ndi suti zidayambitsa chiwonetserochi, chomwe pambuyo pake chidayamba kung'ambika, mabulawuzi opindika, ma bomba agolide a lamé, ndi masiketi opindika a nyenyezi. Makristalo olemera ndi nthenga anakongoletsa kwambiri zosonkhanitsira zamtundu wa monochromatic, zotchingira pachifuwa, pomwe zipewa za mbale, zomangira zonyezimira, ndi malamba owoneka bwino a ng'ombe adawonjezera mawonekedwe.
Zikopa zofewa za batala ndi suede zowonjezera zinali zofunika kwambiri, ngakhale m'chilimwe. Zolumikizira zoyengedwa zidapangidwa m'mitundu yotentha yachilimwe yofanana ndi kulowa kwa dzuwa ku Italy, pomwe malaya achilimwe, mathalauza, ndi jekete, zotchingidwa ndi mikwingwirima yachikopa, suede, ndi zikopa za njoka, zidatsagana ndi ma moccasins ndi nsapato. Buluu woziziritsa wa cobalt udakhala ngati mtundu wamtundu wanthawiyo. Matumba a zidebe ndi mawonekedwe a chishalo adapitilirabe kukhala zofunika kwambiri koma mutuwo unali kubwerera kwa D-bag, zaka za m'ma 90s zomwe zinagundidwa ndi malemu Princess Diana.
Kaya ndinu ovala bwino kwambiri kapena ovala pang'ono, pali china chake pagulu la Pierpaolo Piccioli. Black anali pachimake, akutsegula chiwonetserochi m'njira zopitilira 10 kudzera pamapewa, madiresi, masuti, ndi zingwe zolumikizira. Kenako panabwera mitundu. Piccioli ankangoganiza za ulendo wothawirako kutchuthi pogwiritsa ntchito zithunzi zooneka bwino za kumalo otentha, ntchentche zoyenda-mumphepo, ndi masilhouette amabaluni. Zowonongeka ngakhale zingamveke, njirayo inalinso yachilendo, ndipo pafupifupi maonekedwe onse amavala nsapato za gombe. Zida zinkabwera ndi golide wodetsedwa, ndipo zipewa za mlomo waukulu zinali zokongoletsedwa ndi nthenga zosiyanasiyana.
Maluwa, ma neon, ndi mapulaneti: Mafashoni a m'ma 90 adadza mozungulira. Pakuchoka pang'ono kuchokera kumapewa akuthwa, mawonetseredwe am'mbuyo a nyengo zakale, mawonekedwe atsopanowo amamveka momveka bwino komanso achichepere, chifukwa cha kugwedezeka, madiresi ang'onoang'ono amaluwa ndi zigawo zowala, zowombana, zokongoletsedwa ndi kavalidwe kakang'ono ka satin. kuti ma supermodels azaka chikwi ngati Gigi Hadid atha kuvala usiku. Chiwonetserocho chinatsekedwa ndi wodziwika bwino wazaka za m'ma 90 Shalom Harlow akuyenda mumsewu wopita kugulu la anthu omwe amabangula.
Pofuna kukupatsirani zochitika zabwino kwambiri, tsamba ili limagwiritsa ntchito makeke. Kuti mudziwe zambiri, chonde onani Zachinsinsi chathu.
Nthawi yotumiza: May-01-2019