NEW YORK, NY - FEBRUARY 12: Mitundu imakhala kumbuyo kwa TRESemme pawonetsero ya Oscar de la Renta ya NYFW pa February 12, 2019 ku New York City. (Chithunzi chojambulidwa ndi Astrid Stawiarz/Getty Images cha TRESemme)
Kwa zaka zingapo zapitazi, New York Fashion Week yakhala ikuimbidwa mlandu wokhala ndi cholinga. Zinawonetsa mkhalidwe wa ndale ndi chikhalidwe cha anthu nthawi yomweyo, popereka ndemanga pa chisankho cha pulezidenti wa 2016, mayendedwe a #MeToo ndi Times Up ndipo anali wonyamula muyeso wa kukula ndi kuphatikizika kwa mitundu-chinthu chomwe chikusowabe kwambiri m'mafashoni ena. Izi zopanga mitu yayikulu zidakondweretsedwa ndikulandila zofalitsa zambiri.
Koma m'nyengo ya Fall 2019, chidwi chochepa sichinaperekedwe kuzinthu izi. Ndipo mwina ndi chinthu chabwino.
Zowonadi, makampani opanga mafashoni ku New York awonetsa kuti kudzutsidwa mwachikhalidwe sizochitika zachidule ngati peplum kapena mapewa. Ndi malingaliro omwe amayenera kutsatiridwa nthawi zonse. Ndipo ngakhale pakali pano kupita patsogolo koyenera kupangidwa ndi ena otsogola, kuchuluka kwa mawonedwe amsewu ndi mawonetsero anali odzaza ndi mitundu yamitundu yonse ndi mitundu. Iwo adawonetsa momwe kusiyanasiyana sikulinso chinyengo: Ndichizoloŵezi.
Panalinso madandaulo omwe amawoneka ochepera omwe alonda akalewo anali oyenerera kupita ku New York Fashion Week. Anthu ochezera pazama TV komanso omwe sakhala pazama media azachuma apeza njira yawo pang'onopang'ono, akuwona momwe magazini amafashoni ndi mawebusayiti akhala akudula antchito kapena kupindika palimodzi. Chofunika kwambiri, malinga ndi lipoti la Launchmetrics la nyengo ya Spring 2019, zotsatira zake zimakhala zamtengo wapatali kuposa zomwe zimatulutsidwa ndi magazini ndi manyuzipepala, 49% kuposa 32%. Ichi mwina ndichifukwa chake olimbikitsa ndi atolankhani adakhala mapewa ndi mapewa, ndipo palibe amene adadandaula - makamaka poyera.
Ndipo kunena za kukhala, mizere yakutsogolo inali pafupifupi yopanda anthu aku Hollywood. Panali, ndithudi, maonekedwe a odyetsa pansi, C-listers omwe akupanga ntchito kunja kwa sabata la mafashoni (mwachiwonekere, nkhani zotchuka tsopano ndi nkhani zamafashoni). Koma omenya kwambiri, a Kardashians ndi opambana mphoto zambiri, analibebe.
Izi zidayika chidwi kwambiri pa zomwe New York Fashion Week ilidi - zovala. Okonza, akuluakulu ndi ang'onoang'ono, adayika zoyesayesa zawo zonse popanga zosonkhanitsa zomwe zinali zokopa mochenjera komanso zokongola kwambiri. Kutengera ndale kunali kochepa, popeza mafashoni apamwamba adatenga gawo lalikulu.
Zokhudza, zokopa komanso zosasinthika ndi njira zabwino zofotokozera Elvis Presley. Ndiwo malingaliro omwe amagwiranso ntchito pagulu lochititsa chidwi la Sally Lapointe la Fall 2019, lomwe lidawuziridwa ndi mfumu yosatsutsika ya rock and rock —makamaka yake '68 Comeback Special. “Pamene ndinali kuonera filimuyo, chinthu chachikulu chimene chinandikhudza mtima chinali yunifomu yake; malingaliro ake, chidaliro komanso chilakolako chogonana, "adatero pambuyo pawonetsero. "Ndi momwe ndimafuna zovala zanga ziwonekere."
Izi zinali zowonekera kwambiri pakuwoneka kwakuda konse ndi zipewa zanjinga zachikopa. Izi zati, sizinali zofanana ndi zovala za Presley, koma chiyambi cha mzere womwe unali wachikazi komanso wamphamvu kwambiri panthawi yomweyo. Panali nsonga za sequins zamizeremizere ndi mathalauza omwe ankayenda pathupi; malaya a ngalande osindikizidwa ndi njoka ndi ma jekete omwe anaphimba mapewa mokongola; ndi zobvala zapamwamba za ubweya wa nkhandwe zomwe zidabweretsa seweroli. Zonse zinali zozikika mumitundu yamtengo wapatali ya monochromatic: ruby red, amethyst ndi chrysoprase green. Zomwe Lapointe adawonetsa zinali nyimbo zapamwamba kwambiri, mawonekedwe apamwamba kwambiri omwe akazi, monga Presley akananenera, onse adagwedezeka.
NEW YORK, NEW YORK - FEBRUARY 12: Woyimira amayenda panjira yowonetsera mafashoni a Sally LaPointe pa New York Fashion Week pa February 12, 2019 ku New York City. (Chithunzi ndi Peter White/WireImage)
Opanga Laura Kim ndi Fernando Garcia adatenga njira yomenyedwa, ndipo zidawathandizira. Adawonetsa zosonkhanitsira zomwe zidawuziridwa ndi Mosque-Cathedral ya Córdoba, Spain, yomwe idawonetsedwa bwino kwambiri ndi makonzedwe azaka za zana lachisanu ndi chitatu. Mwachiwonekere, malinga ndi Vogue, malowa anali okondedwa kwambiri ndi wopanga dzina la mtunduwo, yemwe nthawi zambiri ankatchula za mzindawu ndi zidutswa zopangidwa ndi zingwe zovuta kwambiri, zokongoletsera ndi zinthu zina zochititsa chidwi. Ndipo Kim ndi Garcia adatsatira mokhulupirika.
Anapereka madiresi okongola a tiyi ndi mikanjo ya mpira yokhala ndi khosi la sweetheart ndi suti zowoneka bwino zomwe zidabwera zamitundu yosiyanasiyana zosonyeza msika wa zonunkhira: silika wa turmeric, ubweya wa paprika ndi velveti ya safironi. Zoonadi, zokoma ndi zokometsera ndizo njira yabwino yofotokozera mzerewu. Kuyambira chovala cha chevron cha pinki yotentha mpaka makhoti akuthwa kwambiri, awiriwa adatengera mzimu wa Oscar de la Renta ndikupangitsa owonetsa kukhala ndi ludzu lochulukirapo. (Mwamwayi, panali mabotolo amadzi a Fiji pamanja kwa iwo omwe amamva choncho).
NEW YORK, NEW YORK - FEBRUARY 12: Model Maartje Verhoef akuyenda panjira yowonera Oscar de la Renta pa New York Fashion Week pa February 12, 2019 ku New York City. (Chithunzi ndi Peter White/WireImage)
Mzimu wa gypsy - ngakhale, wolemekezeka kwambiri - udalowa munjira yachiwiri ya Longchamp pa New York Fashion Week. Mtundu wodziwika bwino wa ku France, womwe umadziwika ndi zida zake zoyendera, makamaka chikwama cha Le Pliage, udawonetsa mitundu yosiyanasiyana ya zidutswa zomwe zimalankhula ndi wanderlust, rock star ndi mafani awo omwe adayenda mumzinda ndi mzinda ndi nyimbo m'mutu mwawo komanso masika. sitepe. Ganizilani Mariane Wokhulupirika ndi Patti Smith. Kalembedwe kawo kanaphatikiza mwaluso zinthu zolimba komanso zofewa, zomwe zimagwiranso ntchito kwa wotsogolera wopanga Sophie Delafontaine.
Mwachitsanzo, madiresi aatali osindikizidwa okhala ndi jekete zachikopa zonyezimira, nthiti za grosgrain zokhala ndi siliva; masiketi owoneka bwino okhala ndi nsapato za njinga. Adatulutsanso logo yatsopano ya LGP ya mtunduwo, yomwe idaponyedwa pazidutswa zingapo, kuphatikiza La Voyageuse, chikwama cham'manja cha Longchamp chomwe changotulutsidwa kumene, chotchedwa moyenerera.
NEW YORK, NEW YORK - FEBRUARY 09: Model Sara Grace Wallerstedt akuyenda panjira yowonera mafashoni a Longchamp pa New York Fashion Week pa February 09, 2019 ku New York City. (Chithunzi ndi Peter White/WireImage)
"Zosonkhanitsazo ndizomwe zimagwiritsidwa ntchito komanso zokongoletsera, pogwiritsa ntchito zokongoletsa ngati zida zopangira zovala," watero wojambula Dion Lee ponena za kudzoza kwa chopereka chake cha Fall 2019 mu imelo pambuyo pawonetsero wake wanjanji. Mwachionekere, mawu si mphamvu yake. Koma zimene mbadwa za ku Australia zimasoŵeka m’kulumidwa ndi mawu a pithy, iye amapindula koposa m’kulingalira zovala zimene zimakopa chidwi.
Nyengo ino, adasankha ma corsets, kuwaphatikiza ndi ma blazers ndi mathalauza otayirira, odyetsera pansi; kuwonjezera nthenga pa boning; kapena kuziyika pa mabatani oyera. Ngakhalenso maonekedwe amene analibe malamba okongola amenewa—madiresi onyezimira a silika ndi majuzi apamwamba a nthiti—amene anadulidwa bwino kwambiri moti ankaoneka ngati mavu. Zosonkhanitsazo zinali zoyengeka komanso zachikondi; zinali ndakatulo zooneka—palibe mawu ofunikira.
NEW YORK, NY - FEBRUARY 10: Ojambula amayenda njira yowonetsera mafashoni a Dion Lee pa New York Fashion Week: The Shows pa February 10, 2019 ku New York City. (Chithunzi chojambulidwa ndi Slaven Vlasic/Getty Images cha NYFW: The Shows)
Zovala zazimayi zisanayambe Lachinayi, masiku angapo m'mbuyomo kunali Sabata la New York Fashion: Amuna. Sichilandira chidwi chotere, monga momwe zilembo zazikuluzikulu zimasonyezera ku Milan ndi London mu Januwale. Koma palinso zilembo zowerengeka kuti muwone stateside - ndiye, Todd Snyder. Mu Fall 2019, wopanga dzina lodziwika bwino adapereka choko chodzaza ndi mitundu yosiyanasiyana, mawonekedwe ndi mitundu yowoneka bwino. "Ganizirani kapeti wa shag ndi matabwa," adatero kudzera mu rep wake patatha masiku angapo chiwonetserochi. "Ndinagwiritsa ntchito izi ngati chilimbikitso changa pamutu wapanjira. Zosonkhanitsazi ndi malingaliro opanda ulemu a okonzekera koleji aku America osakanikirana ndi British rock and roll. "
Yoyamba idawonekera pakusankhidwa kwa sweti ya quirky varsity ndi ma pullovers omwe anali ndi logo ya Iowa State (Snyder's alma mater), pomwe omalizawo adabwera ngati mawonekedwe a Paul Weller, mathalauza am'miyendo omwe adaphatikizidwa ndi masokosi oyera ndi akuda. ndalama za penny. Ponseponse, mzerewo unali wabwino kwambiri wopanda pake, unali woyambirira; zinali zosangalatsa mosangalatsa. Dziwani, Europe.
NEW YORK, NY - FEBRUARY 04: Ojambula amayenda panjira yowonetsera mafashoni a Todd Snyder pa New York Fashion Week ya amuna ku Pier 59 Studios pa February 4, 2019 ku New York City. (Chithunzi ndi Slaven Vlasic/Getty Images)
Wopanga Lela Rose ndiye woyang'anira wabwino kwambiri. Zowonetsera zake nthawi zonse zimakhala ndi ma cocktails otsitsimula, kuluma kopepuka komanso machitidwe. Pakugwa kwa 2019, wokonza zochitika zamafashoni adadziposa yekha, ndikuwonetsa chiwonetsero chofanana ndi cha Westminster Kennel Club, chomwe chidachita mwambo wake usiku womwewo. Kunena zowona, ake anali ochita bwino kwambiri. Ma Model, ovekedwa ngati chizindikiro chapaphwando la dimba, adatsika ndi mipanda yoyera yokhala ndi mipanda yonyezimira. Aliyense anathawira pabwalo lonyamula agalu amitundu yosiyanasiyana, pomwe oyang'anira Robert Verdi ndi Jenna Bush Hager adatulutsa mawu ngati "tayelo iyi ndi yomasulidwa" ndipo "akaluluwa amatha kugunda."
Kulankhula kwa galu uku kukanakhoza kusokoneza, koma sizinali choncho. Makhalidwe abwino a mapangidwewo—monga mabulawuzi opangidwa ndi manja a bishopu ophatikizidwa ndi mathalauza owoneka bwino a silika ndi mikanjo ya m’miyendo yokhala ndi maluŵa ovunda—anawaliradi. Zowonadi, Rose adapereka tanthauzo latsopano kumutu wapamwamba kwambiri pachiwonetsero.
NEW YORK, NEW YORK - FEBRUARY 11: Model Ana Cristina akuyenda panjira yowonetsera mafashoni a Lela Rose pa New York Fashion Week pa February 11, 2019 ku New York City. (Chithunzi ndi Peter White/WireImage)
Monga Lela Rose, Brandon Maxwell adachititsanso mini soirée-ngakhale yake inali Yotsika Kumadzulo Kwambiri kuposa Upper East. Anapereka nkhuku yokazinga, zakumwa zolimba mwachinyengo ndi mabotolo amadzi a Fiji kuti apeze bwino. Koma itangotha maola ola, mumsewu wawung'ono, adabweretsa phwandolo kumtunda ndi mzere wa madiresi owoneka bwino ndi masuti otuwa.
Iye watsimikizira mobwerezabwereza kuti ndi katswiri wa zakuda ndi zoyera, pogwiritsa ntchito mitundu yosakanikirana m'njira zokopa-monga turtleneck yokulirapo yofanana ndi siketi yapamwamba komanso bulawuti wa cape-sleeve ndi mathalauza a palazzo. Izi zati, zidutswa zake zabwino kwambiri zinali madiresi opangidwa ndi ma chartreuse owoneka bwino komanso satin wowala wapinki. Tikukhulupirira kuti adzachita zambiri ndi mitundu yowoneka bwino m'tsogolomu, popeza ali ndi diso lake.
NEW YORK, NEW YORK - FEBRUARY 09: Model Grace Elizabeth akuyenda panjira yowonetsera mafashoni a Brandon Maxwell pa New York Fashion Week pa February 09, 2019 ku New York City. (Chithunzi ndi Peter White/FilmMagic,)
Studio One Eighty-Nine inali ndi mzere wautali kunja kwa Spring Studios, komwe amakawonetsera ku Fall 2019. Zikuoneka kuti mtunduwo unali kuwonetsa ntchito, chifukwa chake chitetezo chinali ndi aliyense kuyembekezera kwa theka la ola. Ambiri amasiyidwa pakatha mphindi 20: nthawi yabwino kwambiri poganizira kutsika kwa kutentha tsiku limenelo. Koma omwe adatsalira - ndipo adaloledwa kulowa - adatenthedwa nthawi yomweyo ndi omwe adapanga Rosario Dawson ndi zosonkhanitsa za Abrima Erwiah.
Anawonetsa zosankha za amuna, akazi ndi ana zomwe zinali zodziwika bwino komanso zowoneka bwino. Panali ma kimono okongola, suti yolumphira yokhala ndi miyendo yayikulu yokhala ndi manja a bulawuni ndi masiketi ofika pansi. Zovala, zomwe zidabwera mumitundu yosiyanasiyana ya indigo ndi batik, zidawoneka bwino kwambiri. "Ili ndi gulu lathu Lamlungu Lopambana," adatero Dawson ku gululo. "Mukuwona njira zambiri zamakedzana [za ku Africa] zomwe zikadali zokongola kwambiri mpaka pano." Monga momwe mapangidwe ake analili, cholinga chachikulu cha mtunduwo ndikupanga zidutswa zokhazikika zomwe zimagwira ntchito ndi amisiri amderalo m'madera kuti apange zovala zokongoletsedwa ndi Africa ndi Africa. "Ndi zambiri kuposa mafashoni," adatero Erwiah. "Ife tiri pano ndi cholinga komanso chifukwa."
NEW YORK, NY - FEBRUARY 11: Ma Models akuwonekera pawonetsero wa Studio189 FW19 pa New York Fashion Week: The Shows ku Spring Studios pa February 11, 2019 ku New York City. (Chithunzi ndi Cynthia Edorh/WireImage)
Ngakhale Victor Li ndi wamng'ono kwambiri, atamaliza maphunziro ake ku sukulu yokonza mapulani mu 2017, adapereka zopereka zomwe zinali zopitirira zaka zake. Pakugwa kwa 2019, adalimbikitsidwa ndi ulendo waposachedwa wopita ku Hokkaido, Japan, komwe adatenga zinthu kuchokera kumapiri achisanu a m'derali komanso msipu wobiriwira ndikuwalowetsa muzovala zowoneka bwino, nsonga zamtundu wa kimono ndi zovala zakunja zopukutidwa.
Choyamikirika kwambiri, akukankhira kwenikweni malire a mitundu yofewa muzovala zachimuna. Mitundu ya sherbet pinki, violet ndi buluu wakumwamba mumzerewu wonsewo idasindikizidwa ndi masitayilo a corduroy, cashmere ndi nsalu. "Palibe phokoso pano," adatero m'mawu ake. "Tayesetsa kupanga mapangidwe omwe ndi okongola komanso osasinthika, ndikumupatsa mwatsatanetsatane komanso magwiridwe antchito."
Zadig ndi Volatire amadziwika popanga zovala zapamwamba zapamsewu zokhala ndi zopindika zaku France. Pakugwa kwa 2019, komabe, wopanga Cecilia Bönström adayang'ana tsidya la Atlantic ndipo adalimbikitsidwa kuchokera kumizinda yamatawuni yomwe ili ndi magulu akuluakulu a basketball: Los Angeles Lakers, Chicago Bulls ndi Memphis Grizzlies. Logos ochokera kwa akatswiri a NBA amenewa anaikidwa pa majuzi angapo omwe anali ophatikizidwa ndi mathalauza otayirira, nyemba komanso nsapato za biker kapena nsapato. Panalinso madiresi aafupi a sequin, malaya a ubweya wonyezimira ndi ma suti wamba mumithunzi yamithunzi yomwe imakhala ndi mtanda wogwirizana pakati pa amuna ndi akazi.
NEW YORK, NEW YORK - FEBRUARY 11: Woyimira amayenda panjira yowonetsera mafashoni a Zadig & Voltaire pa New York Fashion Week pa February 11, 2019 ku New York City. (Chithunzi ndi Peter White/WireImage)
Monga wolemba moyo komanso mkonzi wamsika, ndimakonda kudziwa zatsopano komanso zazikulu kwambiri padziko lonse lapansi zamafashoni, kukongola ndi kukongoletsa kunyumba. Ndimakhala ku New York City ndipo…
Nthawi yotumiza: May-30-2019