Yonke imikhiqizo ekhethwe yiVogue ikhethwa ngokuzimela ngabahleli bethu. Nokho, uma uthenga izimpahla ngezixhumanisi zethu zokudayisa, singase sizuze amakhomishini amalungu.
Ngeke ngilikhohlwe iphutha lami lokuqala lakudala. Ngithathe ihembe lango-1950 elinemihlobiso yezimbali ye-3D ngaliyisa kumshini wokuhlanza owomile ojwayelekile ekhoneni. Ungqimba lwaso lwangaphandle lwe-chiffon lwaklebhuka lwaba yizicucu futhi lwabuyiselwa kimi. Imiqumbe yami kasilika echumayo yayishwabene, igobile futhi ibunile-njengombhede wezimbali ombiwe inja kamakhelwane. Ngingazisola mina kuphela, ngempela. Kufanele ngazi kangcono. Angibatshelanga abahlanza ukuthi leli jazi lidala njengogogo wabo futhi kufanele liphathwe ngokucophelela. Kodwa ezimweni eziningi, kufanele ngazi ukuthi le ngubo akufanele ihlanzwe nhlobo.
Imfashini intekenteke. Uma kubhekwa ukuthi kuzo zonke izinto ezikhona eziqoqwe emnyuziyamu emashumini ambalwa eminyaka adlule, ukuvikelwa kwemfashini nezindwangu yikho okuqapha kakhulu. Nakuba imidwebo kawoyela iyohlala ihleli ezindongeni zeqoqo elihlala njalo lemnyuziyamu, umnyango wezemfashini ukhawulela ukubukiswa kwezingubo ezinyangeni eziyisithupha. Yiqiniso, izinto zasendulo ezingekho emnyuziyamu zingezokugqoka nezothando, kodwa zidinga izinga elithile lokunakekelwa.
Ngalokhu, ngithinte u-Garde Robe, umphathi wendawo yokugcina umlando kanye nemfashini eNew York. Inkampani isiza ukugcina, ukugcina nokugcina amaqoqo emfashini ayigugu (okuhlanganisa nezinto zakudala) eziqoqwe abantu ngabanye nezikhungo. U-Doug Greenberg we-Garde Robe wangisiza ukuba ngiqonde imikhuba yakhe engcono kakhulu yokugcina imfashini; ngaphezu kwalokho, unikeze nemikhiqizo ethile eyisisekelo esiza ukugcina izingubo zizinhle. Konke lokhu, ngezansi.
“Zonke izilenge kufanele zigcinwe ezikhwameni eziphefumulayo. Izikhwama zokugqoka zikakotini kanye ne-polypropylene (ppnw) ziyisivikelo futhi zingawashwa ezikhathini eziningi, ngakho zingasetshenziswa isikhathi eside. Ungasebenzisi izikhwama zokuhlanza okomile ukuze uzigcine——Eqinisweni, lapho uziyisa ekhaya kumishini yokuhlanza ezomile, sicela uzisuse ngokushesha. Bazolimaza izingubo. Noma okungcono, letha izikhwama zezingubo ezisebenziseka kabusha kumshini wakho wokuhlanza ukuze izikhwama zepulasitiki Ezishibhile zingaphonswa ezindaweni zokulahla imfucumfucu.”
“Ungalengi izindwangu ezinwebekayo, njengokunitha, ukusikeka okuyisikwele, imihlobiso esindayo nezingubo ezinzima, ngoba zingase zikhubazekile. Beka lezi zinto zibe flat ebhokisini lezingubo eziphefumulayo noma uzigoqe ngamathawula ephepha angenayo i-asidi ukuze ugweme ukuphakamisa Imibimbi. Awukwazi ukusebenzisa uhlobo lwe-hanger olufanayo kuzo zonke izingcezu zezingubo ezisekhabetheni lakho, ngisho noma lokhu kungase kujabulise ngobuhle. Kukhona ama-hangers athile angcono kakhulu ezinhlotsheni ezithile zezingubo, ngakho qiniseka ukuthi ukhetha njalo i-hanger efanele. Isibonelo, iziphanyeko ezinamahlombe abanzi zamajazi asindayo, iziphanyeko zamabhulukwe ezineziqeshana zamabhulukwe, nama-hanger anamapheshana okuphakela izinto ezithambile. Uma ungabaza, beka izinto phansi esikhundleni sokuzilengisa ku-hanger. Azikho iziphanyeko zocingo, kuze kube phakade!”
Ngaphandle kwamathawula ephepha anele angenayo i-asidi, noma yiliphi ikhabethe likanokusho aliphelele. Sebenzisa amathawula ephepha ukuze ukhiphe ama-crease, amahlombe ahlanganisiwe, imikhono yepulaki kanye/noma izikhwama zezandla ukuze ulondoloze isimo sazo. Amathawula wephepha angasiza futhi ukugcina amakhabethe aminyene noma isitoreji Hlukanisa izinto ezisebhokisini. Qiniseka ukuthi usebenzisa amathawula ephepha ukuze uhlukanise izinto zokuhlobisa/ezinobuhlalu kwezinye izinto okungenzeka ziboshiwe, futhi ugweme ukudluliswa kukadayi wesikhumba, i-suede, nezinto zedenim.”
“Bambalwa kakhulu ochwepheshe abasezingeni eliphezulu abanakekela izingubo zesintu. Isihlanzi sakho esomile esimaphakathi asidingi ukubhekana nomklami obizayo futhi osezingeni eliphezulu i-RTW noma imfashini. Izihlanzi ezomile ezingcono kakhulu zihlanza izinto eziningi ngesandla, zisebenzisa izincibilikisi ezihlukene kanye nemishini yezindwangu ezahlukene; Ama-Dry cleaners amaningi asebenzisa i-solvent eyodwa kuphela yokuhlanza, okungenzeka noma ingabi yinhle kakhulu ezimpahleni zakho ezithile. Amanye ama-solvents anobungani bemvelo kunezinye, kodwa kwezinye izimo, lezi zinyibilikisi "eziluhlaza" azikwazi ukuhlanza kahle. Izinto ezingcolile. Ngaphambi kokuba unikeze isihlanzi isiqeshana sezingubo esiyigugu, sicela ubabuze mayelana nenqubo yokuncibilikisa kanye nokuhlanza. Ingabe zinikeza izinketho ze-solvent? Ingabe bahlanza ngesandla? Ingabe banikeza imikhiqizo yesikhumba ngaphandle? Le inzima kakhulu Umbuzo omuhle. Kuya ngokuthi uhlala kuphi, kungcono usebenze nabahlanzi bemfashini abasezingeni eliphezulu ngaphandle kwendawo yezokuthutha.” Ngokuzilungisa ekhaya, uGreenberg uncoma izinti zokuwasha nezokukhipha ukungcola ezivela ku-The Laundress.
“I-steaming iyindlela enhle yokuqeda imibimbi nemibimbi. Sebenzisa amanzi acwengekile esitimeleni ukuze uthole imiphumela engcono kakhulu. Ukushisa kwensimbi kunomphumela onamandla ezindwangu kunomusi. Uku-ayina kunga-ayina ngokuphephile izindwangu eziqinile, isibonelo Ukotini okwazi ukumelana namazinga okushisa aphakeme. Umusi noku-ayina kuzolimaza usilika, ivelvet, isikhumba, i-suede kanye nemihlobiso yensimbi. Uma usesimweni esiphuthumayo semfashini futhi udinga isitimu ukuze ukhiphe imibimbi engutsheni ethambile, zama ukusisebenzisa phakathi kwe-steamer nezingubo Faka izindwangu ze-muslin phakathi ukuze unciphise umthelela. Ngokuvamile, lezi zinto zishiyelwa ochwepheshe bokunakekelwa kwezingubo. Izihlanzi ezomile ezinolwazi zivame ukususa izinkinobho/imihlobiso ngaphambi kokuhlanza bese ziyisebenzisa kabusha isikhathi ngasinye. Yingakho abahlanzi abangcono kakhulu bekhokhisa izizathu Eziphakeme.”
Uma izingubo zakho zineziphu zensimbi, okokuqala, kufanele kube ngaphambi kuka-1965, ngoba iziphu zepulasitiki zaduma ngasekupheleni kwawo-1960. Okwesibili, inamandla futhi mancane amathuba okuthi inyakaze, kodwa kwesinye isikhathi iyabhajwa. Faka ingcina yezinyosi ukuze wenze izinto zihambe kahle.
Ufuna isikhwama esihle? Sebenzisa imicamelo yesikhwama ukuze uyigcine ilingana. Lawa masayizi avela ku-Fabrinique afika ngezinhlobo eziningi. Amathawula wephepha angakwazi futhi ukuxazulula le nkinga, kodwa umcamelo wesikhwama kulula ukuwususa kunamabhola ambalwa ephepha.
Uma udinga ukuqeda iphunga ingubo, engeza amanzi angu-90% kanye no-10% weviniga omhlophe ohlutshiwe ebhodleleni lesifutho. Fafaza ikhambi kuyo yonke ingubo bese uvumela ukuthi yome. Ngaleso sikhathi, iphunga lentuthu kanye nesitolo se-thrift lizoshabalala.
Amahawu angaphansi kwamakhwapha (amise okweziphedi zamahlombe, kodwa afanele amakhwapha akho) nanoma yiziphi izikibha zangaphansi ezihlobene nalokhu zizokwengeza ungqimba oluvikelayo ukuze kugwenywe amabala okunzima ukuwahlanza kanye nokujuluka.
Amabhulokhi emisedari awasebenzi ngokumelene nawo wonke ama-moth infestations, kodwa avimbela ukukhula kwezinambuzane. Faka ipheya ekhabetheni lakho nasekhabetheni bese ubuyisela amabhlogo lapho elahlekelwa i-rosin. Ukuze uthole izinyathelo zokuphepha eziqinile, sicela uthathe izicupho zebhu.
Uma zingasetshenziswa, izicathulo zesikhumba zamadoda zingagcinwa kanye nezokugcina. I-Leather Spa inguzakwethu omkhulu weCedar. Izicathulo zabesifazane ngokuvamile zihluke kakhulu ngezitayela nemikhiqizo, futhi kunzima ukuthola ama-racks ezicathulo, kodwa zikhona. Ukuze uthole izinhlobo zezicathulo eziyinkimbinkimbi, kukhona njalo amathawula wephepha.
Lezi zikhwama ezincane ngeke zandise impilo ye-wardrobe yakho, kodwa zizokwenza ikhabethe lakho kanye nama-drawers akhombe kahle.
Izindaba zakamuva zemfashini, imibiko yobuhle, izitayela zosaziwayo, izibuyekezo zeviki lemfashini, ukubuyekezwa kwamasiko namavidiyo kuVogue.com.
© 2021 Condé Nast. wonke Amalungelo Agodliwe. Ngokusebenzisa le webhusayithi, wamukela isivumelwano sethu somsebenzisi kanye nenqubomgomo yobumfihlo, isitatimende sekhukhi, namalungelo akho obumfihlo e-California. Njengengxenye yokubambisana kwethu nabathengisi, iVogue ingathola ingxenye yokuthengisa emikhiqizweni ethengwe ngewebhusayithi yethu. Ngaphandle kwemvume ebhaliwe yangaphambili ka-Condé Nast, okokusebenza kule webhusayithi akumele kukopishwe, kusatshalaliswe, kudluliswe, kugcinwe kunqolobane noma kusetshenziswe ngenye indlela. Ukukhetha isikhangiso
Isikhathi sokuthumela: Jun-08-2021